Food, food culture, food as culture and the cultures that grow our food

Irrigate, ice skate

February 28, 2006

Took the new irrigation system out for a spin and it looks like I have a hunquering for the Netherlands. The idea is that all manner of plant life will grow along the borders, if it would just stop freezing for one day.

Vernacular architecture. Surely I have the ugliest shed in the gardens and hope that a good flood will wash it away.

My sweet neighbour Sidi AlGouche, who saw me pissing about with the main canal structure, took the hoe from my hands, (Gimme that hoe, Ho!) and laid out the canal perimeter. He's so bored right now that he's raking his lands for the fourth time. Note, the blue pills that he gives his garden.

Irrigorgeous!

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Spring is a time of rebirth

February 26, 2006

But not for everyone. Upon inspection of my lands I discovered a dead mouse. And then another, and another. In total, there were six dead mice on my new plot!

Looks like someone is a picky eater. Actually, its not spring here, its still freezing five degrees in the night. I returned to my Occitanian kitchen garden Sunday to discover that not one of my cover crops had sprouted let alone burgeoned in the sub-zero weather. Imagine that, seeds not sprouting when its -5!

In the mean time I got to try out the motoculteur, which we have nicknamed the motivateur for obvious reasons. It took me thirty minutes to turn my gardens, fifteen of which were spent getting the motor to start.

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Git yer frites on! What we'll probably all be wearing this Fall

February 24, 2006

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Daddy's favourite outfit from the Jeremy Scott Fall 2006 collection, image used entirely without permission

This is no time to bitch I mean kvetch about healthier alternatives. Just plunk down a honqin' load o' dosh and git yer dang frites on, bi-haa-whoa. It's New York designer Jeremy Scott's Fall 2006 collection, and I'm sort of all over it.


From the Jeremy Scott Fall 2006 collection, image used entirely without permission

Really dig the pizza robe, but unless I keep the yurt up all winter, I just don't see it fitting into my lifestyle. It is mind-boggling though how well haute couture goes with a yurt. I keep telling everyone it was a practical choice, but you just have to keep the bigger picture in mind for that to become clear. Jeremy Scott is part of that bigger picture.

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My new lounge-about-the-yurt robe from the Jeremy Scott Fall 2006 collection, used entirely without permission, although, soon I'll take my own dang pictures

Who wears Jeremy Scott besides me? Björk, Cammy Diaz, Chrissie Aguilera, Kylie Minogue, the artist formerly known as Esthertje and the geologist formerly known as my Dad.

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From the Jeremy Scott Fall 2006 collection used entirely without permission

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Food-related film at the 4th Berlinale Talent Campus

February 23, 2006


'Doña Ana', watercolour and collage that inspired Marlon Vasquez Silva's animation film Strawberry Eating Woman. 'Doña Ana' © Marlon Vasquez Silva, digital image courtesy of the artist

Apparently the director of the Berlinale International Film Festival, Dieter Kosslick, is obsessed with food and cooking. This explains why one of the six programmes had as its theme Food, Hunger and Taste. The 4th edition of the Berlinale Talent Campus (BTC), a section for young-ish filmmakers (when young means under 40), was dedicated to a heavily-worked relationship between food and film. Aside from my interest in the subjects, this was the most coherent and well-organised programme within the Berlinale. The Talent Campus offered young filmmakers a chance to meet, show their films, attend presentations, workshops and in general become indoctrinated I mean introduced to the film industry.

Although the evenings' big-screens at the BTC lamentably included worn out choices of food-related film like Babette's Feast, Eat Drink Man Woman, (how to ruin great films with unimaginative programming) and the dreaded 'Food + Romantic Comedy' genre piece, 'Bella Martha' by Sandra Nettelbeck, the programmers were wise enough to screen historical gems like Marcel Pagnol's 'Harvest (Regain)', informative documentaries like Hal Erickson's 'Alice Waters and her Delicious Revolution' (2003) and the most sensual cinematic food chain and materials exploration ever made, 'Drawing Restraint 9' by Matthew Barney.

This year, thirty-two young filmmakers were spotlighted in the Berlinale Talent Campus and divided into a five part programme titled unoriginally, 'Food for Thought'. From the selection, the films on the subject of hunger tended to suffer most from ill-research and moralist pedantics.

But when the films were good, they were very very good. Here is the culiblog selection of the eight best films on Food, Hunger and Taste from this year's Berlinale Talent Campus (in alphabetical order):


EviannaÏve image still © Verena Vargas, used courtesy of e|x|il Film

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Tiny Katerina serves food to the dogs, image still © Ivan Golovnev, used courtesy of Golvnev Film


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Let the future begin, kimchi air conditioner is here

February 15, 2006


Romantic kimchi photo courtesy of "Do the Bart" Charlotte Yong San Gullach

Kimchi is pickled cabbage (or radish or mustard leaf or...) and I feel quite comfortable in reporting that it is one of the top five most delicious things you can put in your mouth. It is Gawd's own comfort food, made with generous amounts of fresh garlic, ginger and red peppers, it is crazy healthy. So healthy, that an entire nation and a large population of several other nations believe that kimchi can prevent illness. I belong to one of those nations. Kimchi Nation. Kimchi also has a farty smell, but regular culiblog readers know that I just live for that.


Museum of Kimchi photo courtesy of NihaoGirl

And if all that weren't reason enough to get a leg up on the kimchi altar, apparently kimchi can also kill the avian flu virus H5N1 and is soon to be used in the manufacture of air conditioners. No Fred, not hair conditioners, AIR conditioners.


Snowy vats of kimchi fermenting in the park courtesy of Polish Sausage Queen

Today Reuters reported that: South Korean firm LG Electronics is poised to start marketing an air conditioner with a filter made using an enzyme from the pungent national dish kimchi that is aimed at protecting against the bird flu virus. "We developed the filter with the aim of protecting people against bird flu," LG spokeswoman Park Se-won said by telephone, citing four studies from domestic and overseas institutions that she said showed the filter eliminated the deadly H5N1 virus.


Kimchi pots in the public space by Bryan Hughes

Unfortunately the air conditioners will use only the enzyme from the kimchi and will not transmit its smell. This is a mistake waiting to happen and I would like to urge you to get on the horn immédiatement to let LG Electronics know how wrong that would be.

Thank you Willem for this culi tip. You know I love the kimchi.


Glamour shot of kimchi courtesy of a person with wonderful photographic skills and whose name I cannot read because it is written in Korean

A list of links to images and air condioner manufacturers for Kimchi researchers and cultural activists.


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Kimchi, the comfort food of the gawds courtesy of culiblog

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When fish fall in love

February 13, 2006

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film still from When Fish Fall in Love, shows main character Atieh, her daughter and sisters preparing orange syrup in the garden. Image used without permission

When it comes to food-related film, I couldn't have made a better start at the Rotterdam International Film Festival. Drawing Restraint 9 had me reeling for days. Good for Drawing Restraint, bad for all the others that I saw directly afterwards. I had all but given up hope for finding a new approach to the genre, when I went to see the last film on my list.

When Fish Fall in Love saved me from being mired in bourgeois feel-good movies, films that are little more than romantic comedies with chefs and kitchens, gratuitous food porn, films that make audiences twitter at the thought of eating bull's testicles. Fish Fall in Love is Iranian theatre director Ali Raffi'i's first feature about two lovers being reunited after a twenty-year separation, and a new generation of about-to-be lovers, about to be separated.

Ex-political prisoner and Iranian émigré Aziz returns to his home at a Caspian Sea coastal village, where he finds that his former beloved Atieh, her daughter and two sisters have appropriated his family home and turned it into a restaurant. The film is shot like an old postcard from your grandparents' seaside holiday, complete with long images of regional specialities. In this film, no dish leaves the kitchen without making a cameo. Can you imagine jewelled rice doing the red-carpet walk at Cannes?

Ali Raffi'i spoke to the audience before the screening, explaining that this film was about the difference between the way his and the generation now in their twenties, express love for one another. His intricately developed characters convey the complicated situation of a generation (Aziz and Atieh) whose political passion (may have necessarily) precedes their passion for each other. This contrasts sharply with the generation of Atieh's daughter Touka and her Teheran beloved Reza, who are even driven to criminal acts in the hope of supporting their love.

Admirably, Raffi'i endeavoured to show a different view of woman than what he described as 'ordinarily portrayed in Iranian cinema'; a woman whose destiny is not dependent on the presence or hope for presence of a man in her life. Not being sufficiently familiar with Iranian cinema to judge, I had to think, 'Heq, come on over here, that's a hole in the market!' Until now, the art installation videos of Shirin Neshat and the British documentary filmmaker Kim Longinotto's Divorce Iranian Style were until now, my sole influences.

While Atieh is a strong character, supporting her daughter, two of her sisters and herself by running a small restaurant, she is also always really nervous about this role. Preparing lunch and dinner for only twenty, though she's been doing it for years, seems to be a monumental feat for her. Among the many kitchen shots of brilliantly presented 'home-style' cooking, the viewer is treated to beads of sweat on noses and upper lips, the wiping off of sweat from brows and the drenched backs of clothing. I'm thinking, 'Sister, what you need is a smaller menu.' But Atieh's unwieldy menu seems to represent traditional culture and her uncomfortable relationship with it.

The film's ending is deliciously open, giving few clues as to how Aziz and Atieh will give shape to their deep love and respect for one another in the future.This combined with Raffi'i's rich characters have given me room to identify completely with love's consequences for Atieh and Aziz. All that I am willing to give away, is that there is a cottage involved. I know that the next time I make orange syrup, this film will be the first thing on my mind.

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Food-related film at the Berlin International Film Festival

February 09, 2006

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Pack up your yurt, we're moving to the steppes of Berlin for a week, where it's much colder than it was in Rotterdam, and where a yurt will come in handy. The craziness begins today at the Berlinale, the Berlin International Film Festival. Culiblog will be attending the madness for an entire week, from Saturday the 11th until the 19th, reporting on all food-related films and presentations.

This year there is a glut of food-related film because aside from the regular programme, food, hunger and taste are the subject of the Berlinale Talent Campus, a platform within the Berlinale festival. The Berlinale Talent Campus creates opportunities for young filmmakers to meet with les eminences grises from the film industry and the folks from the more active side of food and food culture as well. Alice Waters, Vandana Shiva, Carlo Petrini will all be there.

Once again, I've created a culiblog food-related film selection culled form the entire Berlinale programme for those willing to move beyond Babette's Feast. Oh dear, it's 2006 and they're actually showing Babette's Feast!

The culiblog selection at the the 56th International Berlinale Film Festival:

And what will I be doing in my mornings and on Wednesday and Thursday? Lolling about and slacking off? Why I'll be re-viewing the thirty-two (32!) short films on food, hunger and taste at the Berlinale Talent Campus, chit-chatting with the directors, watching the odd non food-related film.

You'll be needing these links as well:


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Drawing Restraint, dragging ambergris

February 05, 2006

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Occidental Guest (bride), production still from Matthew Barney's Drawing Restraint 9, copyright Matthew Barney, used without permission

Filled with expectation unsuitable for the company of friends, clutching a fat wad of tickets between fingers reeking of quickly eaten, mediocre sushi, it is unwise to view the best film of the festival first. It just ruins everything, and this is exactly what happened to me on January 30th when, in the exquisite 'old' Luxor cinema in Rotterdam, I saw Drawing Restraint 9.


Shimenawa, production still from Matthew Barney's Drawing Restraint 9, copyright Matthew Barney, used without permission

Drawing Restraint is artist Matthew Barney's 2006 film entry in the International Film Festival Rotterdam and as well the Berlinale Film Festival, where he is a member of the jury. Avant-pop artist, composer and girlfriend Björk composed the soundtrack. Their collaboration is astounding on all levels; the film will make you cry, it is that beautiful. Aside from being culiblog's favourite at this year's festival, the film is exemplary of food-related film in the culiblog sense of the word; food, food culture, food as culture and the culture that grows our food.

Matthew Barney is the Lance Armstrong of contemporary art. In my opinion, no chef can yet lay claim to this position. Drawing Restraint 9 is also the best food-related film ever made, a lavish display of sensuality and ritual.


Barney on the left, Armstrong on the right

Drew Daniel of Matmos wrote this stellar description of Barney's art practice on Björk's DR9 website:
Barney is a visual artist whose ambitious, rigorous multimedia work encodes esoteric meanings while providing lushly immediate aesthetic rewards. Best known for The Cremaster Cycle, the sprawling sequence of five films made over ten years which was the subject of a recent Guggenheim retrospective, Matthew Barney's work is multimedia in execution but singularly focused in conception: tightly unified fusions of sculpture, performance, architecture, set design, music, computer generated effects and prosthetics, Barney's films deploy the full range of cinematic resources in the service of a hermetic vision rich with densely layered networks of meaning drawn from mythology, history, sports, music, and biology.

This is a sexy way of saying that Barney's work is based upon his own elaborate and logical cosmology. In Drawing Restraint he playfully turns materials, forms, geometries and processes (e.g. petroleum jelly, silicone, whale blubber, ambergris, other marine excretions and accretions), cultural-historical narratives and geographic trajectories (e.g. the architecture, interior and machinery of a whaling ship, the culture of whaling, the history of a specific ship) and the experience of time (e.g. pearl oyster divers holding their breath under water, the migration of whales, a Japanese tea ceremony), into a luscious weave of deeply connected meaning and narrative.

This is where chefs tend to slack off.

But this is Barney's demarrage, an escape or breakaway that gives him an advantage over the rest of the 'field'. Whereas it is common for a chef to create a 'richly organized set of aesthetics' (as Drew Daniel describes Barney's approach to making art), I know of no example within the culture of contemporary haute cuisine in which a chef recontextualises elements on this level to form a total experience beyond the formal boundaries of restaurant culture. Perhaps I'm not going to the right sort of parties. I long for an haute cuisine that is less 'applied' and more autonomous.

Please read more... "Drawing Restraint, dragging ambergris"

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Yesterday's news: anti-advertgames

February 03, 2006

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"Making money in a corporation like McDonald's is not simple at all. Behind every sandwich there is a complex process you must learn to manage: from the creation of pastures to the slaughter, from the restaurant management to the branding. You'll discover all the dirty secrets that made us one of the biggest companies of the world."

So state the Italian artist-activist makers of the McDonalds anti-advertgame, Molleindustria. I don't know if the fact that the rainforest is being destroyed to grow soy beans for hamburger meat or that cows are fattened with industrial garbage in feed lots is a secret anymore, but playing the online game illustrates that it definitely is a challenge balancing the economic factors of selling a burger without turning into a blood sucking evil-ass. After playing McDonalds for an hour, I had not once succeeded in making a profit and in fact I caused the company to go bankrupt every few minutes.

And if you're thinking, 'couldn't happen to a nicer bunch of guys', have a go.

The tip off is from Regine at we-make-money-not-art, a trend and technology blog. Thank you!

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