Food, food culture, food as culture and the cultures that grow our food

Dang Freegans, eatin’ our trash, stealin’ our women

January 1, 2007

image from the Freegan.info website and used entirely without permission
See what I mean? Used entirely with permission

Actually, Freegans don’t so much steal our women as eat our trash. And, not so much our trash, but perfectly edible food and produce that shops and restaurants end up throwing away because the products have passed their sell-by dates.

As of today, I’ve become a vegetarian again for a year, mostly for ecological reasons, but also to more thoroughly dive into local and seasonal cuisine vegetal. While rooting around online, researching potentially fashionable forms of food fetishism, I re-stumbled upon the Freegans.

In the end, lactoccasional-ovo vegetarianism emerged as an appropriate form for one who so smugly orders hindu vegetarian food on carbon-not-so-neutral airplanes. Please Gawd, don’t make me learn through my ass this time as much as I had to last time.

image from the Freegan.info website and used entirely without permission
A Freegan hits the freakin’ motherload: a vein of relatively fresh and normally expensive Odwalla juices found in a dumpster, image from the Freegan website used entirely with permission

from the freegan.info website, used entirely without permission
Oy vey is mir, the irony! Trashed canvas shopping bags emblazoned with interspecies French-kissing from the Freegan website used entirely with permission

From the horse’s mouth: Freegans are people who employ alternative strategies for living based on limited participation in the conventional economy and minimal consumption of resources. Freegans embrace community, generosity, social concern, freedom, cooperation, and sharing in opposition to a society based on materialism, moral apathy, competition, conformity, and greed.

And they’re no slouches when it comes to Freegan photography, either.

image from the Freegan.info website and used entirely without permission
Freegans tend to forage in groups and come prepared for food transport and sharing. This image illustrates the difference between a group of urban Freegans and the homeless and/or deprived. Freeganism is a lifestyle choice. Image used entirely with permission

image from the Freegan.info website and used entirely without permission
Image from Freegan.info used entirely with permission

Freegans, urban food waste experts

The term ‘freegan’ is a portmanteau combining the words ‘free’ and ‘vegan’, one who chooses not to eat or use animal products in any form. Freeganism is a lifestyle based upon the notion that although animals may not have been exploited in the production process of a product, human exploitation and destruction of the environment were most likely part and parcel of bringing that product into being.

In order to avoid contributing to the processes of exploitation, freegans choose not to participate in exchanges within capitalist economy. Freegans don’t buy things. But that doesn’t mean they are homeless, go hungry, go naked or stop using computers and bicycles. In fact, freegans are experts at ‘living off the fat of the land’, and in a typical North American or European city, there’s a lot of ‘fat’ to go around.

Go to any outdoor market at closing time. You will find crates of perfectly wholesome food that no one will let you buy. Each day enormous amounts of perfectly edible food is thrown away before it leaves the supermarket. Food that has passed its ‘sell by’ date, or it is deemed overripe, simply because too much of it was bought in the first place, is all thrown away. Remember, 40% of all food produced is wasted before it even has a chance to get to our lips.

Freegans are high quality urban food waste experts, and they use their knowledge to feed and clothe themselves. They are highly aware of trash pickup times, baking schedules, and they are quite often informed by shop workers happy to see that the unsold food does not go to waste. One can compare a freegan to a computer ‘hacker’, pointing out the weaknesses of the (food) system.

debra at 2:39 | Comments (4) | post to del.icio.us

Birthday picnic au plein air for proximi et intimi

December 25, 2006

Deb transporting a porcupine of cream puffs
Transporting the cream puffs using a porcupine

Several years ago I sort of got stoned and envisioned myself making a grand birthday party entrance with a giant croque en bouche tower perched on my head. Croque en bouche is traditionally a wedding or baptism cake for French people, constructed out of cream puffs and glued together with caramel. Having heard from ‘everybody’ that making cream puffs was the baking equivalent of falling off a horse, I set to work the night before my big party, thinking I was very smart indeed to get such an early leg up. By 3 am, an utter lack of experience and a faulty oven had turned several hundred dollops of batter into a pile of crunchy dog biscuits.

Panicking, I abandoned the vision of the elegant croque en bouche and decided to resort to Plan B, an apple crumble, the humble pie of all earthly pastries. (That’s apple humble to you!) Although I’ll be the first to say that I make an insane delicious apple crumble, (cinnamon splinters, blood oranges and their zest are the secret ingredients) there is nothing inherently superlative about this dessert that warrants serving it to guests at a birthday party. And adding insult to injury, apple crumble makes one heq of a shitty hat.

Only later did I learn that a hot and reliable oven is a key factor to the success of making cream puffs, but in the mean time I had already distanced myself from the notion of wearing food on my head. Must be the onset of maturity.

deb transporting a porcupine of cream puffs

This year I was finally able to realise my croque en bouche dream albeit sans chapeau, thanks to my fabulous cousin, Chef Rebecca. In the wee hours before the big day, and in the time it took me to peel four tangerines and shoot the shit, Auntie Sheba somehow whipped out a massive strudel and Cousin Rebecca cheerfully produced several hundred cream puffs.

Cream puffification
Cream puff action shot

We celebrated this year’s birthday amongst a small group of intimi et proximi right down the street at the Duvenek Ranch. Because I’m not a practical woman by nature, we ended up transporting the croque en bouche sans bouche in the form of a porcupine on the belly of the birthday gal herself. And because I am a bonafide socialist and not a champagne socialist, I served the croque en bouche porcupine with cremant, aka ‘the bubbles of the poor’ and the pickles of the Bubby.

And because Nathan deeply understands me, we sipped tangerine juice and nibbled a salad of local fruits from a set of glassware used on the former Concorde! Can life get any better?

C is for Culiblog
Mom and cousin Bec get the giggles when they pull out a pickle and figure out that C’ is for culiblog

The birthday cream puffs were filled with seven different cream fillings, invisible without x-ray vision: smoked whitefish, smoked salmon, avocado lime zest, tarragon, rosewater, orange flower water + tangerine and maple syrup + date. The puffs were slathered with caramel and sprinkled with fleur de sel and flying fish roe. All of the flavours of cream puff went well together, although my father somehow was able to hog all the avocado cream puffs leaving Nathan with a load of whitefish. C’est la vie.

debra at 3:17 | Comments (0) | post to del.icio.us

Smoke yer marijuanakkah, it’s time to celebrate Chanukkah

December 22, 2006

Latkes vintage '69 made by Mother of Culiblog
Latkes prepared in 1969 and preserved for lifetime use

The continental posse is curious about my visit back to the Heimatt and has requested some reflection on my own personal hotbed of culinary inspiration.

When it comes to holiday cooking, Mom (not her real name) says, ‘You only need to make latkes once in your life.’ Latkes are potato pancakes, ashkenazic rösti invented in the 19th century - but you’d think some First Nation Abraham had designed them himself, considering all the sentimental fuss about a greasy wad of carbohydrate.

My family’s recipe involves frying up one big-ass batch of latkes before the birth of the first child and freezing it ration-style in aluminium foil pouches. For each successive year for the rest of your life, defrost as needed and reheat the latkes in the microwave, not unlike our ancestors did back in the day in Lodz, Barcelona and merry Kiev. Served with non-fat yoghurt and wholly un-sweetened, raw cranberry relish, you’ve got yersself a traditional Chanukkah snack that will roll the eyeballs into the upper reaches of your head. Charmless, musty and sour, it’s all about the effort, the actual result is of far lesser importance.

Family banding
Meanwhile, inefficient, first-generation, à la minute courgette latkes fuel the fambly banding practice

In a music room bunker deep under the earth’s crust, the Solomon family practices its three-song holiday repetoire featuring one work each by the Red Hot Chili Peppers, the Violent Femmes and Lynyrd Skynyrd. No need to remove our reading glasses, it’s all about the volume and the atmosphere is wholesome. Continental Auntie does tend to make liberal use of the ‘f’ word in front of the chilluns but I argue that the word ‘friggin’ just makes you think ‘fuqn’ anyway and is equally an ‘f’ word. The older generation insists that cussing in Yiddish is in no way déclassée. Whatevs.

Noe valley matzah factory
Il n’y a pas de trop, Santa is a big, fat, gay Jew.

The above image shows one of Santa’s ritual unleavened bread factories in Noë Valley. Festive landscaping lures stay-at-home moms to line up outside and donate the blood of their young children. The blood is stored in vats until springtime and used in an 18 minute start-to-finish baking process for the production of Passover matzah.

California, show yer teeth. Tonight is the last night of Chanukkah. (Please read more… )

debra at 20:53 | Comments (3) | post to del.icio.us

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